Frequently Asked Questions

MyHome currently has one location in Midtown Manhattan at 353 West 48 Street.

MyHome has proudly been in business since 2001.

MyHome is licensed in New York City. We carry liability, disability and worker’s compensation insurance with total coverage of $5 million. Sure it may seem excessive; and yes, that policy was difficult and expensive to get, but we believe our clients should have complete peace of mind when we are working in their home.

MyHome’s license number is 1357367. You only want to work with a contractor that is licensed. When you have a contractor’s license number, you can call the New York City Department of Consumer Affairs and confirm that the license number is valid and up to date.

Yes we can! Visit our testimonials and references section on this website. You may also want to check third party reviews on websites such as Google, CitySearch, Yelp, Judy’s Book, Insider Pages, Yahoo, Bing and more.

Our design consultations are free of charge whether at your home, place of business or our showroom. Usually our labor proposals are free too. There are exceptions to this last rule, however, which would be discussed with you during your free consultation.

MyHome accepts cash, checks, home equity checks and money orders.

Yes – we have an unprecedented 5-year warranty on all the labor we do.

We pass on the manufacturer’s warranty for all materials we purchase for our clients. Some of these are lifetime warranties.

Yes and no. We do not have architects on staff, but we have relationships with top architects and architectural firms. We do have interior designers, kitchen designers, project managers, and various trade professionals on staff.

Yes. In fact, if all you want us to do is design your project, we will do that for you. By working with MyHome, you can take full advantage of our process, which breaks down remodeling into various components. Therefore, you can use us for design, purchase materials from us, and all the construction. Or you can use us for any individual part(s).

It all starts with a Free Design Consultation, which you can register for by filling out the form on the right.

We assign a Project Manager to every project we work on to ensure it is properly managed. The Project Manager is a MyHome employee who is responsible for every phase of your remodeling project once the Remodeling Consultant has completed the design, layout and has ordered your materials. Our Project Managers personally know and meet with all the trades’ people who will be working in your home. He or she manages and constantly inspects all work done by our trades’ people during construction. The Project Manager is either present everyday for part of the day while the project is ongoing or is in contact with the trades’ people everyday to insure the project is running smoothly. The Project Manager is available to you by phone and email at all times.

Maybe. It depends upon what your budget is. During your Free Design Consultation the Remodeling Consultant should be able to tell you if we can work within your budget, and whether your budgetary expectations are reasonable or not. Once we set your budget and prepare a labor proposal, we keep to the price we quote you. And, because our team is knowledgeable about the products you need, we’ll be able to show you materials that should keep you within your budget.

As a simple rule of thumb, if you are removing or adding any walls inside or outside of the structure, you will need an architect to prepare drawings. We can provide all the design services you need in-house, but if and when a licensed architect needs to sign off, we will use one of the architects in our network. This will depend on whether you need a permit from your local building department, or if you live in an apartment building – whether the building management requires that the plans be prepared by a licensed architect.

We can start the design process usually within a day or two after an agreement is finalized. The design process and material selection can take quite a bit of time, so the sooner we start, the better it is for you.

We will assist you in the process. It is ultimately your responsibility to pay for the permits and all related fees, but we can help by preparing the paperwork required on our end and guide you through the rest. Building permits require an architect’s drawings, various plans, and other documentation. All of these items must be submitted by an expediter. We can hire these professionals on your behalf and oversee the process, or you may do it on your own if you prefer.

It will depend upon the scope of work. You will be instructed by your Remodeling Consultant as to what exact steps you need to take. But, generally speaking, you’ll want to clear out the area being worked on of all your personal belongings that can be removed. Although, we cover the areas surrounding our work area, you’ll want to protect your furniture from dust with plastic and/or sheets.

That depends on the scope of the project, and quite frankly, your tolerance for inconveniences. If you live on-site during a renovation, you will be inconvenienced. We typically recommend that people make alternate living arrangements during the main construction, because you will see dust, debris, workers going in and out, you will hear loud noises, and see people ripping apart what is probably your most prized possession. You may also be without certain comforts like bathroom facilities for part of the time. This can be quite disturbing to most people.

Yes, but we recommend that you remove everything possible – especially your most important possessions. Although we take extreme precautions to protect your belongings, dust flies everywhere during construction. And, much of it is microscopic so no matter what we (or you) do to protect them, your belongings will get dust particles on and in them.

We cover floors with either rosin paper or Masonite, depending on the circumstances and we block off the areas surrounding the construction area with heavy gauge plastic sheets. We also cover furniture in the surrounding area to protect it as much as possible.

At the risk of sounding elusive, we really must say that “it depends.” The scope of the kitchen remodeling dictates how long the project will take. For example, if you are removing a wall or two to open up the kitchen, which is a very common trend now, the actual construction will obviously take a little bit longer. But, it is important to remember that removing or adding walls will generally require building department permits, which will also add to the project time.

1. Here’s a sample timeline, for illustration purposes only, of a kitchen remodeling project that does not include removing or adding walls:
2. Meet with a remodeling consultant for a Free Design Consultation and get proposal – 1 week.
3. Meet at our showroom, finalize the scope of the project and the terms of a Remodeling Agreement – 2 to 3 weeks.
4. Select all the materials for the project – 1 to 4 weeks.
5. Materials are ordered and delivered – 4 to 8 weeks.
6. Demolition and removal of old materials and appliances – 1 week.
7. Installation of new materials and appliances, flooring, plumbing and electrical work, painting – 3 to 4 weeks.
8. Finishing touches and clean up – 1 to 2 weeks.

You can start by getting a good idea for the type of look and style you want. If you don’t know yet, look at some magazines, websites, or watch some home remodeling shows to get some design ideas. Then, contact us for a Free Design Consultation with a Remodeling Consultant. You will be instructed by your Remodeling Consultant as to what exact steps you need to take. But, generally speaking, before construction begins, you’ll want to clear out the area being worked on of all your personal belongings that can be removed. Although, we cover the areas surrounding our work area, you’ll want to protect your furniture from dust with plastic and/or sheets.

1. Select your remodeler
2. Create design
3. Select and Order materials
4. Building approval
5. Demolition
6. Deliver materials to the apartment
7. Rough electric
8. Rough plumbing
9. Wall preparation
10. Sub floor preparation
11. Flooring installation
12. Cabinet installation
13. Locating appliances
14. Countertop template
15. Priming and painting
16. Countertop installation
17. Backsplash installation
18. Finish plumbing – dishwasher, Sink and faucet installation
19. Appliance installation
20. Accessories installation
21. Door hardware installation
22. Finish electric – Light fixtures, outlets, under cabinets…
23. Touch up items

Since we have all the materials you need at our showroom, yes, a MyHome Remodeling consultant will help you choose everything you need.

Yes. That is a major component of what makes us a full service firm. The fact that we are able to design everything for you, help you choose the materials, and sell them to you, makes it very convenient for clients. But, it is also important to note, that we don’t require you to purchase the materials from us. You may shop at other locations.

Absolutely not; but it helps if you do. Your Free Design Consultation is meant to help generate ideas or work through the ones you already have.

From a functional standpoint, cabinetry is probably the most expensive item in the kitchen, mainly because of its sheer volume. However, you can also spend a lot of money on your countertops and flooring, depending on the style and materials you like.

Realtor® Magazine reported that for the year 2005, the national average return on investment for kitchen remodeling is between 84.8% and 98.5% depending upon whether it is a major or minor project and whether the budget is upscale or moderate. However, in large metropolitan areas like New York City, the return ranged from 119.5% to 135%. So, many people will actually make a substantial profit on the money they invest in their kitchen.

Of course, re-facing is less expensive than replacing cabinets – but it is usually not recommended. If you are planning to replace doors and drawer fronts you’ll also need to replace the front face of the cabinet frame to make sure the doors and visible parts of the cabinet match. Re-facing the frame is where problems usually occur. If the laminate shifts or peels away, an unattractive seam shows. This is most typical complaint among re-facing clients.

Another reason not to re-face is cost. The most expensive part – about 70% of a cabinet’s cost – is the door. Consider this, if you are already paying for most of the cabinet, why not add a little more and upgrade to completely new cabinets?

There are many options available in cabinets for every budget. If you are already committed to spending time, money and effort on remodeling, consider the value and enjoyment you’ll gain by opting for brand new cabinets. At MyHome, we provide re-facing service because – on occasion – re-facing can be a logical choice. Cabinet re-facing is extremely profitable since very little labor is involved. It’s good business for the re-facing company but not often the best solution for the homeowner.

This is one of the most frequently asked questions when researching cabinets. There is a general perception that plywood is better than particleboard – maybe because plywood has the word “wood “in it. Most people figure plywood is real wood while particleboard is a cheap imitation. Surprisingly, in many cases particleboard is a much better option than plywood.

In order to make the best decision; let’s define these two materials. Plywood is composed of thin sheets of wood glued together. Particleboard is made of tiny wood particles held together with adhesive. Both are strong, durable and make a good cabinet. Also, there are different types and grades of plywood and particleboard. High-density particleboard is stronger and will last longer than plywood. All wood expands and contracts because of changes in humidity. Generally, particleboard is more resistant to expansion and contraction. So in areas with significant changes in humidity – like New York – particleboard is the better option.

We love Ikea. The Scandinavian design is beautiful and the prices are too good to be true. It’s a great place to research European design ideas. Here’s how Ikea works: Ikea is a high volume retailer offering low priced European-style kitchens. All Ikea products are manufactured in Sweden and shipped to the U.S. To keep shipping costs low, all items are shipped and sold disassembled and the buyer must assemble the cabinets. This works well with tables or bookcases, but is very problematic with kitchens.

Imagine purchasing a kitchen consisting of 10 cabinets. If you receive 10 assembled cabinets, all you have to do is install them. However, Ikea kitchens come in hundreds – even thousands – of pieces and there is a chance at least one piece will be missing. In addition, the assembly process takes time – which will be more costly if you are paying for labor. Another issue is the strength of the cabinet. A cabinet assembled on the job site will never be as strong and precise as a cabinet manufactured in a factory. In addition, Ikea uses very low-density particleboard. If you need to re-drill or nail the cabinet in the future, there is a good chance the low- density material will crumble.

Home depot is a great source. The huge stores are very convenient with everything found under one roof. Also, Home Depot’s prices are known to be the best in the market. This is not true, however, with kitchen cabinets. Actually, Home Depot’s kitchen cabinet prices are very similar to those of smaller kitchen cabinet dealers. Home Depot has shown tremendous success as a high volume, low priced retailer but if you are looking for personalized, high quality service, that’s not where Home Depot shines.

The most common complaint of Home Depot customers is that “you are on your own.” No one devotes time to your project – helping you understand, plan, design, price and make the best choices. To keep costs low and prices very competitive, Home Depot’s service must remain basic. Stores are generally understaffed and most employees are not trained designers or contractors.

Wood flooring is not usually recommended for kitchens. That said, it’s still a very popular choice. If it works visually, go ahead and use it – especially if you are opening the kitchen into an adjacent space with wood flooring. Generally, designers choose other materials over wood because of both the “wear and tear factor” and possible exposure to water damage. Because the kitchen is a high traffic area, the finish will wear off a wood floor more quickly than in other low traffic parts of your home and will need to be refinished periodically. Also, because there is plumbing in a kitchen, wood floors are at risk for water damage. A tile floor is more resistant to leaks and humidity.

Popcorn ceilings are usually made of stucco or sand paint. This technique was used on construction during the ‘70’s and ’80’s for the purpose of hiding imperfections in concrete slab ceilings that were never 100% level. In some cases, chunks of these ceiling are beginning to crumble. When repairing a popcorn ceiling, it’s nearly impossible to make the repair invisible.

There are two ways to make these ceiling smooth. One is to scrape and skim coat. This requires more work but will not affect the ceiling height. The second way is to frame and Sheetrock the ceiling. This technique is faster, but will drop the ceiling height by at least a couple of inches. In some cases, it may be an advantage because new framing will allow you to run wiring for ceiling light fixtures or speakers. Wiring through concrete slab ceilings can be very challenging. In addition, some buildings do not permit running wiring in concrete slab ceilings. Changing a “popcorn” ceiling to a smooth surface ceiling is a popular trend. Not only does it allow for better wiring, it also makes the space look cleaner, larger and less dated.

At the risk of sounding elusive, we really must say that “it depends.” The scope of the bathroom remodeling dictates how long the project will take. For example, if you are relocating your fixtures and reconfiguring the room, the actual construction will obviously take a little bit longer. But, it is important to remember that moving fixtures will generally require building department permits, which will also add to the project time.

Here’s a sample timeline, for illustration purposes only, of a bathroom remodeling project that does not include relocating fixtures:

1. Meet with a remodeling consultant for a Free Design Consultation and get proposal – 1 week.
2. Meet at our showroom, finalize the scope of the project and the terms of a Remodeling Agreement – 2 to 3 weeks.
3. Select all the materials for the project – 1 to 4 weeks.
4. Materials are ordered and delivered – 3 to 6 weeks.
5. Demolition and removal of old materials and appliances – 1 week.
6. Installation of new materials and appliances, flooring, plumbing and electrical work, painting – 2 to 3 weeks.
7. Finishing touches and clean up – 1 to 2 weeks.

You can start by getting a good idea for the type of look and style you want. If you don’t know yet, look at some magazines, websites, or watch some home remodeling shows to get some design ideas. Then, contact us for a Free Design Consultation with a Remodeling Consultant. You will be instructed by your Remodeling Consultant as to what exact steps you need to take. But, generally speaking, before construction begins, you’ll want to clear out the area being worked on of all your personal belongings that can be removed. Although, we cover the areas surrounding our work area, you’ll want to protect your furniture from dust with plastic and/or sheets.

• Create design
• Sub flooring
• Countertop installation
• Select materials
• Floor tile installation
• Medicine cabinet installation
• Order materials
• Electric wiring
• Light fixtures installation
• Deliver materials
• Wall preparation
• Accessories installation
• Demolition
• Wall tile installation
• Painting
• Plumbing
• Plumbing fixture installation
• Touch up and cleaning

Since we have all the materials you need at our showroom, yes, a MyHome Remodeling consultant will help you choose everything you need.

Yes. That is a major component of what makes us a full service firm. The fact that we are able to design everything for you, help you choose the materials, and sell them to you, makes it very convenient for clients. But, it is also important to note, that we don’t require you to purchase the materials from us. You may shop at other locations.

Absolutely not; but it helps if you do. Your Free Design Consultation is meant to help generate ideas or work through the ones you already have.

Depending on your style and taste, the floor and wall tiles can be the most expensive. Other possibly considerable expenses are the fixtures and shower system.

Bathrooms typically get the best return on investment in a remodeled home. Realtor® Magazine reported that for the year 2005, the national average return on investment for bathroom remodeling was between 93.2% and 102.2% depending upon the budget is upscale or moderate. In large metropolitan areas like New York City, the return ranged from 116% to 136.3%. So, many people actually make substantial money when investing in a bathroom remodeling project.

Re-glazing is a great way to save money. It requires less labor and eliminates the cost of installing a new tub. Many older tubs are cast iron – a very sturdy and expensive material. In addition, some older tub models may be deeper than new tubs. Yes, there are several good reasons to re-glaze but there is one big disadvantage — it doesn’t last. The glaze usually begins to wear off within a few years. Depending on usage, the tub may need to be re-glaze in three years. Nothing really replaces the visual appeal of a brand new tub. If you want to do it right and are not limited by budget, replacing the tub is the best way to go.

At the risk of sounding elusive, we really must say that “it depends.” If the room is empty, or unfurnished, it takes a lot less time than refinishing the floor in a fully furnished room. Also, it depends upon the size of the room and obstacles that exist. As a general rule of thumb, approximately 500 square feet of vacant floor space can be refinished in one day. If, however, any staining is required, the stain must be allowed to dry for one day. Also, if there is furniture in the room, the time for refinishing doubles, at least.

The timing for a new floor installation will depend on numerous variables, such as whether the old floor is being removed, the condition of the sub-floor, building requirements for sub-flooring, etc.

The best thing you can do is remove everything from the room(s) being refinished. Remember this – floor refinishing requires heavy duty sanding, numerous times. The dust particles that are created fly everywhere even when a “dustless sander” is used. Remarkably, dust from floor refinishing even gets into closed cabinets and closets. So, you need to be mentally prepared for this kind of a mess and clean-up afterward.

Since we have all the materials you need at our showroom, yes, a MyHome Remodeling consultant will help you choose everything you need.

Yes. That is a major component of what makes us a full service firm. The fact that we are able to design everything for you, help you choose the materials, and sell them to you, makes it very convenient for clients. But, it is also important to note, that we don’t require you to purchase the materials from us. You may shop at other locations.

Residential real estate agents say homes with wood floors hold their value better, sell faster, and fetch higher prices, according to a recent nationwide survey commissioned by the National Wood Flooring Association (NWFA). The percentage is not quite known.